Back Already?

      Yes, I am. Auvergne was great! I didn't get to taste any of the famous Bleu d'Auvergne, much to my disappointment. The next time you find yourself at the magnificent cheese counter at Whole Foods, look for it. It's really quite good, very French, and it's possible that I crossed paths with the cow(s) who produced it's key ingredient. 

      I started walking at 12pm Saturday and continued until Tuesday morning, when I awoke to temperatures nearing 10º fahrenheit, much colder than conditions I had been expecting. And I can attest to the fact it was even colder overnight, although my body put up with it all pretty well in spite of my 32º rated sleeping bag. Winter hiking can be intimidating, but with the right attitude and knowhow, it can be a dream. Given the chance, I wouldn't have made any decision differently. 

      It was a kind of sad to come to the realization that I needed to quit the trail. It's not the first time I've been faced with such a decision. However, the odds in this case were stacked against me. I surely wasn't properly outfitted for nighttime temperatures below 10º, I wasn't equipped with snowshoes to traverse sections of trail where more than 4' of snow had fallen within a few weeks. With barely 9 hours of daylight each day, progress was slow, considering all the extra time that must be devoted to putting up with the cold. Most of all, I realized that in such adverse conditions, if I were to get lost or become disoriented, things could get dismal quickly.

      And so Tuesday morning, after finding a way to heat the frozen leather of my boots, I packed up my rig, walked a kilometer to a chapel, took shelter from the wind, and stuck my thumb out. First I caught a ride with a farmer on his way to fetch some sheep, then I walked some more, then I caught a ride with a man whose business was animal reproduction. Next thing I knew I was in St. Alban-sur-Limagnole arranging a ride to St. Chely, where I hopped a bus to Clermont, where I bought a sandwich and newspaper, and then boarded a Paris-bound train. Then I realized I would arrive in time to attend my German class at the Goethe Institut, which I did after showering. 

      Ok, you've put up with my doleful explanation. Here are pictures, as well as a few key mp3's. Yes, this was the first time I brought my iPod (shuffle) on a hike. Shameful? Not when you're spending 12-14 hours a night in your sleeping bag. 

      Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy, where the trail begins. A pretty little place with kind bakers. Check out the wikipedia article. 

                                                          The Black Virgin (a copy). 

     Here I go!

         That's me.

 I asked them about the cheese. They had nothing to say.

It was frozen.

Circumnavigate hazardous ice. Beware of barbed wire.

Photo taken from the height of the snow drift I found. Apart from the lumpy ice/snow, I slept pretty well.

Wakey-wakey

Photo's no good, but I am led to believe this village is where the film Chocolat was filmed. I'll have to look into that one.

They didn't know the whereabouts of the cheese either!

I couldn't believe it either!

Blogger seems to be having some trouble uploading my photos, so I'm going to flip the cassette over and enrich your lives with a few songs I enjoyed while hiking and while hanging out alone in my sleeping bag. Follow the links to download.

Dean Martin and Ricky Nelson - My Rifle, My Pony, and Me

Bertrand Bugalat - Out of Touch

Cansei de Ser Sexy - Let's Make Love and Listen DFA (RAC2 Mix)

Blonde Redhead - Silently

Department of Eagles - No One Does It Like You (Alternate Take)

Portugal The Man - Colors

Jimi Hendrix, Curtis Knight & the Squires - I'm a Man (Live)

The Velvet Underground - Temptation Inside Your Heart

Back to the photos. This was a nice spot.

Okay, so the trouble with the blogger photo uploader continues. That's probably my cue to get out of the house. Check back later, I'll give it another shot, I promise.